Mombasa is Kenya’s second city and the largest port on East Africa’s Swahili coast.and is rich in African history. Swahili refers to both the language (strictly, KiSwahili) and the culture of a huge area around Mombasa, and a few Swahili phrases, such as the all-purpose greeting, Jambo! , and not forgetting the ever-popular ‘Hakuna matata’ (No problem) and ‘Pole-pole’ (Easy does it), can go a long way to make Mombasa beach holidays more enjoyable. Pronouncing a final ‘e’ as half way between ‘ee’ or ‘ay’ also helps, for example, polay-polay.
The heart of Mombasa is an island situated at a river mouth fringed with coconut palms and mangrove forests. The river silt has created a break in the great series of coral reefs and white-sand beaches along East Africa’s coast, and for questing sailors, whether from the east or the west, the opening must have seemed like an invitation to explore and eventually to trade.
That feeling of openness, expressed by Swahili phrases such as Jambo, bwana, remains one of Mombasa’s most hopeful characteristics. Mombasa City has now spread well beyond its original island base, and modern port facilities dwarf the original Dhow Harbour by the Old Town on Mombasa Island.
Jambo to Mombasa Hotels and Swahili Culture in City Centre
Business visitors or those looking for big city buzz often opt for modern Mombasa hotels around the city centre, such as the newly refurbished Castle Royal Hotel. These are grouped mainly round around Moi Avenue with its iconic ceremonial arch of huge elephant ‘tusks’ forming an M over the traffic, or the historic Mombasa Train Station, home of East Africa’s first railway and the famous ‘Lunatic Express’ to Nairobi and onto to Uganda.
Jambo to African History in Old Town Mombasa Hotels
Those in search of somewhere quieter than the markets, malls and matatus (minibus transport) of the modern city, with a true Swahili ambience, may prefer a night or two in the Old Town. It was here that merchants from Yemen and Oman first established a base to trade for ivory, slaves and spices, and built fine white stone houses with carved wooden details.
- Many of the old merchants’ houses have been renovated as hotels, apartments and discreet boutique-type shops selling antiques and handicrafts.
- Note the balconies with the fretwork zenana screens of the women’s quarters, and huge wooden doors embossed with brass.
- Interiors hark back to their Swahili glory days – all dark wood furnishings, glowing brass and drifting white draperies
- Every modern convenience and delicious ‘fusion’ cuisine – Swahili/African meets Italian/French – complete the experience.
Other Mombasa Old Town Attractions
Mombasa Old Town is not as extensive as Zanzibar’s Stone Town, but is just as rich in African history. There are many similarities between the two, one of which is that it’s a good idea to take on a local guide who knows the best route. Highlights include historic buildings from the town’s long and intriguing past.
- Grim old Fort Jesus, built by the Portuguese, with a fascinating museum.
- The Mombasa Club, where all colonials arriving by ship, including Karen Blixen of ‘Out of Africa’ fame, stayed before setting out for the interior.
- The colonial-style Old Post Office, built so that Indian workers on the Mombasa-Uganda railway could be reassured that their remittances would get safely home.
- Mombasa’s oldest mosque, built 1570.
- The Levens House, once the Customs House and Government House.
- The Old Coffee House, now a gift shop, which was the merchants’ meeting place for centuries.
For anyone interested in African History, the Old Town is one of the most atmospheric and photogenic parts of Mombasa. It is largely pedestrianised, so is more peaceful and free of traffic fumes than the modern city. Don’t expect too many genuine antiques, but locally hand-made goods in silver, polished stone, local wood and brass have an authentic Swahili touch.
Kate Nivison - Kate Nivison has published 2 novels, over 250 short stories and travel features, visited 74 countries and written about most of them.
